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Runway Reviews

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA CELEBRATES CENTENNIAL WITH GREAT COLLECTION



By Marcellous L. Jones

January 17, 2010


Milan, Italy – Celebrating its 100 th year anniversary, family roots serves as the inspiration behind the new Ermenegildo Zegna collection for Fall Winter 2010/2011. The superb cuts are used to create slim pants in the suits in which the blazers are cut to a traditional length. Lots of gloves, hat, ties and scarves play a role in the collection. On wool knit top cut as a button down collar is worn with a tie. Another sweater top is made more interested with its zipper on the left side of the neck of the turtleneck top.

There is a balance between the single breasted and double breasted blazers. The lapels are larger than those from the previous season. Could this signal the end of the skinny lapel that has been featured in collection from Paris, and Milan of the past 3 seasons? Yes, it would appear that more traditional sized, larger lapels are what we will be looking out for next winter.

Among the outer wear, we find an interesting cloak-like trench coat in the deepest of navy blue. Its sleeves are large and billowy but without the natural kinetic movement that one would normally associate to such a cut. This has been reduced thanks to the weight of the woolen fabrics.

Bringing home the centennial theme behind the house’s existence, the collection features in several suites the “fabric N°1”, the very first fabric that the house produced one hundred years ago. Fabric N° 1 has the exact same look as its predecessor. Only this time modern technical innovations allows it the material to appear exactly the same, while being lighter in weight.

According to Anna Zegna, “a suit like this produced in the original fabric from 100 years ago would have weighed several kilos.” Technical innovations combined with the ...

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