By Marcellous L. Jones

Photo by Thomas Floyd


September 30, 2008


Paris, France - The grand couturier Elie Saab began the presentation of his splendid Sistien Beauty haute couture collection for Fall Winter 2008 with a veritable onslaught of black dresses in taffetas. Some are off–the-shoulder, while others reveal the back, posses “lowered” necklines and also reveal bare arms. Some have hints of chocolate and are further embellished with delicate laces.

Saab has used draping in a near architectural manner to create structures around the bust, the shoulders and the hips. This is achieved through a clever working of the hands and proper placement. Embroideries are then used to embellish again the bust. These same embroideries play a careful and artistic game of hopscotch with the bows.

The most noticeable thing about Saab’s new haute couture collection is that it is virtually free of the gorgeous empire bust lines which have been inextricably linked to his creations over the past several seasons. This is an important development for his haute couture line as a little more diversity is always welcomed.

Filled with over the top glamour, and flash, Saab did what we knew he would, but THAT is perhaps become problematic. Haute couture is not simply about to-die-for perfection of technique or even just about beautiful fabrics, embroideries and precious stones. It is also a laboratory where new ideas in fashion are born. Unfortunately, this new collection offered little in terms of surprises. Saab will have to innovate more if he wishes to keep his king of glamour couture crown and stay. But nonetheless, this collection still must be regarded as a great moment in couture.