November 5, 2011


Paris, France - This season in Paris saw an impressive number of fashion houses presenting collections signed by new designers at the head of their artistic departments. Kenzo, John Galliano, Paco Rabanne, and Issey Miyake all presented Spring/Summer 2012 collections with new talent. Even Kanye West tried to get in on the fashion bandwagon by presenting his first women’s collection during the season. The results were stellar for some while mixed and even harsh for the others.

Issey Miyake’s new collection was perhaps the most refreshing surprise of the bunch. Light, delicate and inventive, the house is finally on the road once again to contemporary relevance thanks to the skillful mix of research and style. John Galliano’s collection – feminine, romantic and simply beautiful - is 100% Galliano but will probably lack forevermore the runway extravagance known under its founder’s reign. Kenzo’s new collection is such a radical break from the house’s roots that one is hard pressed to recognize it as being Kenzo. Of them all only Paco Rabanne chose an internationally known name to head its design department. Unfortunately, in spite of the collection being visually, it looked more like a pure Manish Arora outing than a new artistic twist to the rich history of Paco Rabanne signed by Arora. And “poor” Kanye West! Kind words were scarce for his first collection.

In a season in which out with the old and in with new designers, Paris once again demonstrated why it attracts so much drama and high expectations for its runways.